Flat Felled Seams & Folding Raw Fabric Edges for Manufacturing Pants
I have seen amazing work on CLO3d of pants and the detail involved from the pockets to the top-stitches. Although, a pair of pants I own that I tried remaking in real life with a sewing machine have a flat felled seam along both side seams, and crotch area. The top waistband area and leg openings are folded over to protect raw fabric edges. I've seen many different options for top stitching and tutorials that show how to replicate the look of a flat felled seam in CLO3D, but not a true flat felled seam folded inside of each other. As for the folded edges (to protect raw fabric).. my canvas cotton pants are folded over twice... say 3/8" and then 1/2" for leg openings, waist band, and even the belt loops to prevent fraying fabric I suppose. I struggled folding over twice in CLO3D. My goal is to master the CLO3D program along with learning traditional pattern making/designing/manufacturing process and then translate my CLO3d design into my tech pack, export the pattern with full measurements and instructions for the manufacturer. Although my pattern won't be accurate if it doesn't include seam allowance for flat felled seam, or the folded edges. Any help will be much much appreciated.. Thank you. I can't seem to find anything online to cover this.
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Depicting sewing without seam allowances, is a very reasonable simplification. It's done in all sorts of drafting, the seam allowance is added last, and isn't shown if it's just clutter. With 3D this is especially true of enclosed seam allowances. After all, to actually sew these edges from fabric, there's a lot more involved than depicted in the pattern, e.g. clipping and trimming the seam allowances. It would be difficult to turn mesh under at a neckline (or any non-straight seam), just like it would be hard to turn back a fabric without clipping and under stitching. If you're determined to depict every scrap of fabric that's actually in the garment, you'll run into these considerations.
You really never need the fabric that is enclosed inside seams (because it's not visible, and it's heft can be depicted. So if you want a felled seam that's a little more realistic, focus on the visible fabric, which is basically two lapped edges (in your case at 1/2"), each of those edges should also have a 3/8" seam allowance but that won't be rendered. Folded hems, can be done the same, you can include a hem allowance and turn it back, because that is visible on the inside of the garment, but don't attempt the second fold, that's completely enclosed, just mark that as a seam allowance. When you add seam allowances, you can add different amounts on different edges. But many people are only interested in the exterior look, and will only indicate the hem with topstitching, in which case the hem allowance + the second turn back allowance could be added as a seam allowance.
With something as tiny as a belt loop, in reality there are usually two turned back edges, for three layers. But you probably want to consider both of those as seam allowances, and only work with one (thickened) layer. This, because the layers are pretty near internal (under the belt loop), and because a belt loop has other folds and tacking to contend with--you don't want to be juggling six layers when only one is visible and the seam is 1/8" from the fold.
You pretty much can be as detailed as you want, but do think about the small details that are left out of patterns, like exactly how allowances are clipped. Also, for your own sanity go as far as you can with a simplified model, before you get too bogged down in details, because there's plenty to learn with just that.
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