Sewing/Arranging facing for lapel
Dear Community,
I am quite a beginner in CLO3D and absolutely enthusiastic about it :) I have as others have already written some difficulties to learn the basics.
I hope someone can help me. I'm about to design a wrap dress.
The upper picture shows the lapel without facing.
Unfortunately, I don't succeed in arranging the facing for the lapel.
I know there is a video/ a lesson "How to construct a lapel". But in this video the facing is simply folded and shows then the left side of the fabric.
I would like to sew/arrange the facing like in real.
Therefore I first sewed the facing to the body and then superimposed it under the body like second the picture below shows. Then I folded both break lines with the Fold Arrangement tool and set the angle of both lines to 360 degrees. Finally I changed the sewing type of the facing to flat. Unfortunately the result is catastrophic.
Does anyone have a hint on how to proceed? Or how to arrange facings professionally in general?
Many greetings to you and thanks in advance
iFashion
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Hello ifashion. It is definitely easier to just use one layer to fake the facing of the lapel. After folding it correctly as you did, I would make it thicker in rendering by adding Add'l Thickness rendering to that piece and then selecting the edge that must have a double edge with the facing and clicking on Curved Side Geometry>Double Sided. That will give the look you are after.
Remember you can control what texture is applied to each side of the fabric piece and even the side by working wtih the Fabric's Material panel.
If you absolutely need to sew in the facing because you want to show the inside of the jacket where the facing is visible you can do the following:
1. Fold the lapel like you have in image 1. I would freeze it.
2. Mirror your facing piece so it is in the same direction as the front of the jacket.
3. Select the facing piece with the Transform Pattern Tool (shortcut A) and right click to select Clone as Internal Shape.
4. Position the internal shape over the Front Piece of the Jacket and align it.
5. Use the newly generated shape as your stitch lines and stitch the facing to the front piece. Remember to use Turned seams.
6. Reduce the Add'l Thickness-Collision on the facing and front pieces so they are pressed really flat.
7. Use Superimpose Under on the facing piece. If your front piece is frozen, then you can simulate the facing now without risk of deforming your front piece.
8. For additional stiffness of the lapel, use Bonding on the Facing so it bends less.
You should get the result you are looking for. There are other ways, but this one might work.
Let us know if it worked.
P
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ifashion
I sympathize as I often have to show the patterns in assembly to convey how they will be made as part of the spec pack and 3D images.
To do that quickly and easily you can construct your jacket as a single pattern and simulate on the avatar with lapel folded over - set the pattern simulation collision to 2.5mm . Then you can create an internal line where your second layer facing lapel is to be sewn onto > cut and sew that pattern > simulate > it will now have a sewn joint > clone the new lapel patterns (left and right) under which will offset exactly in position (purple) folded and in position so there is no need to run a complex simulation. (see slight offset @2.5mm in my image below.) Now merge the main front jacket pattern back together and change the front jacket layers to - layer 1. This will keep all the button holes and trim exactly in place sewn together from the clone process - reducing work. And check all lapel patterns are now sewn together on the jacket and collar where seams may drop. The internal line used in the merge will stay as a blue line and it can be traced back into an internal line and the lapel facing sewn directly to it. That is your new assembly nicely all in place with all buttons etc. By merging patterns back into one piece after splitting you can accelerate your assembly fro these types of pattern areas. Place facing stiffening area (bond/skive) as required.
Change the front suit patterns and lapel patterns to now have a collision of 1mm each and set the pattern additional render thickness to something like 1mm. Strengthen the lapel and simulate it, everything should now stay in place and render nicely.
Simple double layer patterns (purple) of lapel made using the clone pattern under feature and setting the layer for the jacket higher (1). TIP you can also relax mesh over the sleeve to shoulder seam area by using the 'steam' tool to give it a little more shape. About 5 minutes to do.
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