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Adding Pleats - Box Pleats

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List of Contents

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Importing a DXF File

Arranging Patterns in the 2D Window

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

Adding Box Pleats to the Skirt

Sewing the Rest of the Garment

Simulation With Strengthen

Simulation With Unstrengthen

Changing the Avatar Pose

Hiding the Internal Lines

 

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- This tutorial will cover how to make a skirt with box pleats.

- This is a Women’s skirt. Load a female Avatar from the Library.

- Navigate to and double click on the default folder named Avatar in the Library. Thumbnails of Avatars will appear—double click on or drag and drop either female Avatar into the 3D Window.


Importing a DXF File

- Import the file, Box_Pleats.dxf, for this exercise. (Download the practice files before starting this tutorial.)

- To do so, navigate to the CLO Tutorial folder, which was previously added in the Introduction to CLO tutorial, within the Library. Go to C_Details, then h_Adding Pleats. Double click on the file, Box_Pleats.dxf, or drag and drop it into either the 3D or 2D Window.

- If the practice folder has not been added to the Library, navigate to File > Import > DXF (ASTM/AAMA). Locate the file, Box_Pleats.dxf, and click Open to import the file. Set the units to mm and then click OK to finish importing the skirt.

Arranging Patterns in the 2D Window

  • Symmetric Pattern (with Sewing)

    - Only half of the Skirt Patterns have been provided. Duplicate the front and back Patterns as Symmetric Patterns to complete the 3D Garment. Use the mceclip0.png Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar to select the Patterns. In the 2D grid, click and drag the mouse over all the Patterns so that they are fully encompassed within the marquee box. The Patterns will be highlighted in yellow to indicate they have been selected.


    - Right click on one of the Patterns to access a pop-up menu. Navigate to the section labeled Clone Patterns with Linked Editing. Select Symmetric Pattern (with Sewing).

    - A ghost of the copied Patterns will follow the mouse cursor. Click on the 2D grid to Paste. Both the selected Patterns and any Sewing relationships they have will be duplicated.

  • Arranging the Cloned Patterns in the 2D Window

    - Place the duplicated Patterns near the original Patterns. Using the mceclip0.png Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar, move the duplicated back Pattern close to the original back Pattern in the 2D Window.

 

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

  • Syncing Pattern Arrangement

    - Select the  Reset 2D Arrangement tool from the 3D Toolbar to reflect the Pattern layout in the 3D Window as it is in the 2D Window.


  • Arranging Patterns on Arrangement Points

    - Turn on the Arrangement Points.


    - In this particular exercise, the Patterns have been Symmetrized and all the Arrangement Points are linked. Therefore, arranging half of the skirt Patterns on the Avatar will automatically arrange the other half of the skirt similarly on the other side.

    - All Arrangement Points, except for those that are placed around the torso of the Avatar, are linked in CLO ver4.0.0. Symmetrized Arrangement Points have light-blue outlines around them.


Adding Box Pleats to the Skirt

  • Creating Fold Lines

    - In order to fold pleats, the Pattern needs to have fold lines. Use the mceclip1.png Trace tool to generate Internal Lines that will serve as the fold lines. Select the mceclip1.png Trace tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on the purple Baselines that will be converted into Internal Lines and hit the Enter key on the keyboard.


  • Assigning Fold Angles Using the Pleats Fold Tool

    - Select the  Pleats Fold tool from the 2D Toolbar. Set the direction the pleats’ fullness will be folded towards. To do so, click a point on the skirt Pattern after the first Internal Line and move the mouse—an arrow will follow the cursor, indicating the direction that the pleats will be folded. Making sure the arrow crosses over the entire skirt Pattern but stopping right before the last Internal Line, double click to finish setting the direction. When the Pleats Fold pop-up window appears, select Box Pleats and click OK.


  • Sewing the Pleats

    - Use the mceclip4.png Free Sewing tool to sew the Center Front and side seam sections of the skirt Patterns to the Center Front and side seam sections of the yoke Patterns. Make sure not to catch any parts of the Pattern that belong to the pleats.


    - For the pleated portion of the skirt, use the mceclip3.png Pleats Sewing tool to establish Sewing Lines. Select the Pleats Sewing tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on the part of the yoke Pattern that has not been sewn, the one closest to Center Front, and drag along the Pattern outline. Stop after reaching the Sewing Line near the side seam. This is the first half of the seam. For the second half of the seam, click on the starting point of the pleats on the skirt Pattern and drag along its Pattern outline. Click at the end of the pleats to complete the Sewing Line.

    - Make sure the direction the Sewing Lines are being established in follow the direction that the pleats fullness will be folded towards.

Sewing the Rest of the Garment

- Sew the remaining Patterns, using either the mceclip3.png Segment or mceclip4.png Free Sewing tools.

- Use the mceclip6.png mceclip5.png M:N Sewing tool to attach the yoke Patterns to the waistband.


Simulation With Strengthen

- Strengthen adds a temporary stiffness to Patterns and helps create crisply folded pleats. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar and select the mceclip0.png Transform Pattern tool. Then, on the 2D grid, click and drag over all the Patterns. Ensure that all Patterns are fully encompassed within the marquee box. Right click on one and select Strengthen from the pop-up menu. The Patterns will appear orange in the 3D Window to indicate they have been Strengthened.

- Activate  Simulate and the pleats will fold sharply and precisely.


Simulation With Unstrengthen

- Unstrengthen the skirt Patterns when the pleats finish Simulating. To Unstrengthen the Patterns, select all of them, right click on one, and select Unstrengthen from the pop-up menu. The Patterns will no longer appear orange in the 3D Window.

- Activate  Simulate again to see the actual drape of the skirt.

Changing the Avatar Pose

- Change the Avatar Pose from A-pose to have her stand at attention.

- To apply the Pose, navigate to and double click on the default folder named Pose in the Library. Thumbnails of Avatar faces will appear—double click on the folder that matches the Avatar in the 3D Window. Double click on or drag and drop the file pose_02_attention.pos to apply the pose.

Hiding the Internal Lines

- To hide the Internal Lines, navigate to and hover over the mceclip7.png 3D Garment Display icon again. Select mceclip8.png Show Internal Lines and the Internal Lines will no longer be visible on the 3D Garment.

 

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