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Constructing a Fly and Zipper Closure

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List of Contents

Opening a Project File

Arranging Patterns in the 2D Window

Sewing Patterns

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

Sewing the Fly Shut

Simulation

Adding Buttons and Buttonholes

 

Opening a Project File

- Open the file, Pants_Fly, for this exercise. (Download the practice files before starting this tutorial.)

- To do so, navigate to the CLO Tutorial folder, which was previously added in the Introduction to CLO tutorial, within the Library. Go to C_Details, then f_Constructing a Fly and Zipper Closure. Double click on the file, Pants_Fly, or drag and drop it into either the 3D or 2D Window.


Arranging Patterns in the 2D Window

- Duplicate the fly Pattern.

- Since the fly Patterns will not be Symmetrized, duplicate it via Copy and Paste.

- To do so, select the  Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar. In the 2D Window, click on the fly Pattern. Hold down Ctrl or Cmd +C to Copy the Pattern. Then, hold down Ctrl or Cmd +V to Paste. A ghost of the copied Pattern will follow the mouse cursor until it is placed. Click on 2D grid to place the Pattern. Take care not to overlap Patterns.

Sewing Patterns

  • Sewing The Fly to the Pants

    - There are two Patterns for the fly: one will be sewn to the wearer’s right pant front and the other will be sewn to the wearer’s left pant front.

    - Use the  Free Sewing tool to sew one part of the fly to the Center Front seam of the wearer’s left pant leg Pattern. To avoid accidentally easing the fly into the Center Front seam, create the first Sewing Line on the fly Pattern. This way, when a Sewing Line is started on the Center Front of the wearer’s left pant leg, a blue dot the exact length of the fly will appear on the pant Pattern outline.

    - The second part of the fly will be sewn under the wearer’s right pant leg Pattern. Using the mceclip2.png Trace tool from the 2D Toolbar, select the purple Baselines on the wearer’s right pant leg Pattern and hit the Enter key on the keyboard to generate the Internal Lines. Use the  Free Sewing tool to sew the fly to the wearer’s right pant leg Pattern.

  • Changing Sewing Line Type

    - The second part of the fly is sewn under the wearer’s right pant leg Pattern, completely overlapped. If overlapping Patterns are sewn with Flat Sewing Lines, there is a higher chance of collision and Simulation instability when they are folded together. To prevent this, change Flat Sewing Lines to Turned Sewing Lines within the Property Editor.


    - Use the  Edit Sewing tool from the 2D Toolbar to select the Sewing Lines that join the fly Pattern and the left pant leg Pattern. Navigate to the Property Editor and change the Sewing Line Type to Turned. The fly will lay flat when Simulation is activated.

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

  • Arranging the Fly on the Right Pant Leg Pattern

    - The fly needs to be arranged under the wearer’s right pant leg Pattern.


    - Navigate to the 3D Toolbar and select the  Select/Move tool. Right click on the fly Pattern that is sewn to the wearer’s right pant leg to access a pop-up menu. Choose Superimpose (Under) to arrange half of the fly underneath the wearer’s right pant leg Pattern.

  • Arranging the Fly on the Left Pant Leg Pattern

    - If the Avatar is obstructing Pattern visibility, hide the Avatar. Navigate to the Vertical View Toggle Menu and hover over the  Avatar Display—the second icon of the Vertical View Toggle Menu—to view a horizontal row of icons. Select  Show Avatar.


    - The remaining fly Pattern needs to be arranged. Place it at the Center Front of the wearer’s left pant leg Pattern.

    - To do so, navigate to the 3D Toolbar and select the Select/Move tool. In the 3D Window, click on the fly to access the Gizmo tool. Use the Gizmo tool to arrange the Pattern properly. Make sure to place this half of the fly behind the previously arranged fly Pattern on the left.

    - Click on  Show Avatar to view the Avatar again.

Sewing the Fly Shut

- The Center Fronts of the fly Patterns will be sewn together, acting as a zipper closure.

- Select the mceclip2.png Trace tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on the purple Baselines marked on the Center Fronts of the fly Patterns. They will be Traced as Internal Lines.

- Use the mceclip11.png Segment Sewing tool from the 2D Toolbar to sew the newly created Internal Lines on the fly Patterns together.

Simulation

- Turn on mceclip6.png Simulate in the 3D Toolbar to drape.

Adding Buttons and Buttonholes

  • Adding a Buttonhole

    - Add a Buttonhole to the overlap of the waistband.


    - Select the mceclip12.png Buttonhole tool from the 3D Toolbar.

    - Navigate to the 2D Window. The waistband Pattern is marked by purple Chalk Lines to indicate the Buttonhole placement. Click once on the Pattern to add a Buttonhole. A line, representing the Buttonhole, will appear on the 2D Pattern and an image of the Buttonhole will appear in the 3D.

  • Adding a Button

    - Add a Button to the underlap of the waistband.

    - Select the mceclip13.png Button tool from the 3D Toolbar.

    - Navigate to the 2D Window. The waistband Pattern is marked by purple Chalk Lines to indicate the Button placement. Click once on the Pattern to add a Button. A circle with a cross in the middle, representing the Button, will appear on the 2D Pattern and a Button will appear in the 3D.

  • Fastening Button and Buttonhole

    - Select the mceclip14.png Fasten Button tool from the 3D Toolbar.


    - Click on Button and Buttonhole to pair them up in either in the 2D or 3D Window. The selection order does not affect Simulation.

    - The Button will appear on top of the Buttonhole it is paired with. The lock icon hovering above the pair indicates that the Button and Buttonhole has been fastened.

    - To adjust the Bind Position of Buttons, select the Buttonhole with the mceclip15.png Select/Move Button tool from the 3D Toolbar. Navigate to Bind Position in the Property Editor. Click and drag the slider to adjust the value

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