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Constructing a Collar / Lapel

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List of Contents

Opening a Project File

Changing SEWING LINE TYPE.

Using the Fold Arrangement Tool to Fold the Lapels

Using the Fold Arrangement Tool to Fold the Collar

Simulation

 

Opening a Project File

- Open the file, Jacket_Lapel&collar, for this exercise. (Download the practice files before starting this tutorial.)

- To do so, navigate to the CLO Tutorial folder, which was previously added in the Introduction to CLO tutorial, within the Library. Go to C_Details, then a_Constructing a Collar Lapel. Double click on the file, Jacket_Lapel&collar, or drag and drop it into either the 3D or 2D Window.


Changing Sewing Line Type

- There are two types of Sewing Lines: Flat and Turned.

- If overlapping Patterns, in this case the jacket shell and its lining, are sewn with Flat Sewing Lines, there is a higher chance of collision and Simulation instability when they are folded together. To prevent this, change Flat Sewing Lines to Turned Sewing Lines within the Property Editor.

- Select the Edit Sewing tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on a Sewing Line and navigate to the Property Editor. Click the drop down arrow next to Sewing Line Type. Select Turned Sewing.

- The lapels will now lay flat.

Using the Fold Arrangement Tool to Fold the Lapels

  • Tracing a Roll Line

    - The  Fold Arrangement tool can only be applied to seamlines and Internal Lines. Thus, Chalk Lines and Baselines must be Traced as Internal Lines in order to fold them.

    - The roll line is marked by a purple Baseline on the Pattern. Select the mceclip2.png Trace tool from the 2D Toolbar and click on the Baseline.

    - When Patterns are Symmetrized/Symmetrically Pasted, the Baseline only needs to be traced on one of the Patterns. If the Patterns are not Symmetrized/Symmetrically Pasted, Trace the Baselines on both Patterns.

    - With the Baselines selected, hit the Enter key to Trace them and generate the Internal Lines.

  • Folding the Lapels

    - Select the  Fold Arrangement tool from the 3D Toolbar.

    - Click on the newly created roll line on the jacket shell and the Fold Arrangement Gizmo will appear. Use the arrows to fold the lapel. Repeat for the roll line on the jacket lining.

    - Avoid overlapping the shell and the lining Patterns while folding them.

  • Assigning a Fold Angle

    - To fold lapels more precisely, assign a Fold Angle to the roll lines.

    - Select the fold lines on the 2D Patterns with the mceclip4.png Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar. Navigate to the Property Editor. Under Fold, set the Fold Angle to 360 degrees.

Using the Fold Arrangement Tool to Fold the Collar

  • Creating a Roll Line

    - Select the mceclip5.png Internal Polygon/Line tool from the 2D Toolbar and draw a roll line on the collar Pattern in the 2D Window.


    - To pinpoint where to start the roll line, select the  Select/Move tool from the 3D Toolbar. Zoom into the 3D Garment where the lapel roll line and the edge of the collar intersect. Click to create a blue Picking Point—the blue dot will be reflected onto the collar Pattern in the 2D Window.

    - Next, select the mceclip5.png Internal Polygon/Line tool and click on the Picking Point to start drawing the roll line. Drag the mouse and double click on Center Back to end the roll line. The Internal Line will be reflected to the other half of the Symmetrically Pasted Patterns.

  • Folding the Collar

    - Select the  Fold Arrangement tool from the 3D Toolbar. Click on the newly created roll line and the Fold Arrangement Gizmo will appear. Use the arrows to fold the collar Pattern.

  • Assigning a Fold Angle

    - To fold the collar more precisely, assign a Fold Angle to the roll line.

    - Select the roll line on the 2D Patterns with the mceclip4.png Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar. Navigate to the Property Editor. Under Fold, set the Fold Angle to 360 degrees.


Simulation

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- Click on the mceclip6.png Simulate icon in the 3D Toolbar to drape.

 

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