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Diagonal tucks and pleats on shoulders techniques

Comments

  • CLO Designers

    Hi ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5,

    After using the pleat tool, you could edit the internal lines and reshape them into a more diagonal direction. You can also shorten them so the fold sharpness doesn't continue from a certain point, as on your example photos.

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  • ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5

    The only problem with the pleat tool is that after the .39x default value for pleats it can error out and not go any larger. I'm not sure if that is because it has to solve both sides at the same time vs only doing a half side if that makes sense. I'm trying to think if there is a way to exploit buttons as a tack tool since buttons let you select a direction to pull the fabric vs tac tool which seems to uniformly pulls towards center of the two points.  

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  • CLO Designers

    Hi ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5,

    -if you want to try this with buttons, just set the button opacity to 0 and they will be invisible.

    However, I am confused at your comment about the Pleats tool. When using it, it asks which side to pleat, so the first batch of pleats will go only onto one side:

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  • ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5

    Imagine the fullness point tool but it pleats instead of slash and spread and you could set internal line length. Does that make sense?

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  • ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5

    You can see here if I do a diagonal pleat it works fine until you go over 1 inch, then you get the errored out red line of failure. Below that is an example making the pleat tool then cleaning up the side seam. You can imagine if there was a version of the pleat tool that acted like the fullness point tool, only pleating one side.

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  • CLO Designers

    Hi, on your screenshots you have selected box pleats, but the example photos show knife pleats. I am still not sure with what you mean by only pleating one side as the tool is only moving onto one of the sides of the sleeve, or is this what is meant?

    I've tried different scenarios and so far only encountered the red outline when the tool reaches the front slope of the sleeve. The example photos also doesn't show pleats on the slope and has 4 knife pleats, here is the same:

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  • CLO Designers

    Quick try:

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  • ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5

    Sorry I mean only pleating the cap and not the side seam, that was what I was trying to show in third sleeve on the bottom in the picture.That is what I mean if the pleating tool had the same behavior as the fullness point tool, your not pleating on both sides of the internal line.

    Yes I can depending on where I start the internal it may work fine or may error out and I can't figure out if it has to do with the cap shape or something else. You can see below the first picture errors out but if I slide it over it will work.

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  • jpreo

    It sounds like what you want to do is change the depth on one end of the pleat to 0.(Whether that's start or end depends on how you launched the tool.) The examples you've shown have start and end depth set to the same. The pleat tool goes red if your request crosses a segment point. If you're going from side seam to a steep part of the sleeve cap that might be easy to do because the angle is so steep. Anyway, if the two ends have different depth, the distribution is more like the fullness point tool.

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  • ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5

    Ah got it, thank you.

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  • ca41c41ef8dbe45f29d5

    I did a little test exploiting buttons as another type of tacking basically to try and get the fold while having directional specific flexibility. Then I just did the normal marking it off with garmet pen tool and trimming.

     

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