Fold line turns in on itself

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crbn

• October 16, 2022 02:36

I'm attempting to make an internal pocket, where both edges from a cut into the fabric are turned inwards along a fold line but I keep experiencing an issue where the fabric that is being folded clips through the body and has a spiraling effect.

It happens to both edges, and always starts from the bottom

I can usually stabilize it but as soon as there's any major movement the issue occurs again

Here's a video: https://imgur.com/a/NUKyAdr

This is how my cut/ fold lines are setup:

How can I fix this, or what might be my best approach for preventing it?

 

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• jpreo

  • October 16, 2022 03:43

  crbn,

  Curious effect, I haven't really seen a simulation do the wave before. 

  CLO doesn't do very well with turned back edges except when they're truly quite square.  It looks like you have a facing you're going to sew under the opening, correct?  Think about how this would be done IRL, everything around the slash inside the oval, is really the seam allowance for attaching that facing.  The standard approach in CLO, is to eliminate all seam allowances, and only simulate the visible garment.  This is a reasonable simplification just for visual reasons, but it also avoids all the fiddly things people do to get seam allowances to cooperate.  E.g. even if this is a knit, with the real garment, it would probably be necessary to clip into those seam allowances to get those tight curves to turn back and rest flat.  When this seam allowance is left to simulate, you run into the same issue, there are forces working against the fold.  What you should do is cut away the entire oval so that your seam is along the cut edge.  You then add a facing under the opening, and would have a similar oval shaped hole (unless its a binding of some sort).  It's an unusual construction, but you still want to use the same approach that's used on simpler seams in CLO--don't simulate the seam allowance.

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• CLO Designers

  • October 17, 2022 17:14

  We do agree with the above. That in CLO seam allowance is normally removed. So if this would be internal and not visible on the final garment it would be better to remove.

  But if you want to keep it we would recommend reducing the PD as well as add strength in the 3D window while building to give it a little help

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