How can we help you?

List of Contents

Opening a Project File

Adding Sleeve Heads

Download exercise file for Refining a Jacket: Sleeve Heads / Adding Shoulder Pads

Opening a Project File

- Open the file, Refining a Jacket, for this exercise. (Download the practice files before starting this tutorial.)

- To do so, navigate to the CLO Tutorial folder, which was previously added in the Introduction to CLO tutorial, within the Library. Go to D_Fine Tuning, then a_Refining a Jacket Adding Shoulder Pads and Sleeve Heads. Double click on the file, Refining a Jacket, or drag and drop it into either the 3D or 2D Window.

Adding Sleeve Heads

- Sleeve heads are added to give shape and structure to sleeves.

- In this particular exercise, only one sleeve head will be added.

• Assigning the Width of the Sleeve Head
  
  - Measure the total length of the armhole before drafting the sleeve head Pattern.
  
  - Use the  Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar to select all the Pattern outlines of the armhole. Navigate to the Property Editor and under Selected Line, there is an option called 2D Line Length. This value is the total length of the selected Pattern outlines.
  
  
• Making the Sleeve Head Pattern
  
  - Select the  Rectangle tool from the 2D Toolbar. Navigate to the 2D Window and click anywhere on the 2D grid to access the Create Rectangle pop-up window.
  
  - Enter the armhole length (previously measured under 2D Line Length) for the Width and 10mm for the Height.
  
  
• Sewing the Sleeve Head
  
  - Sew the sleeve head to the armhole. Use the   M:N Sewing tool to sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective   M:N Sewing tool.
  
  
• Arranging the Sleeve Head in the 3D Window
  
  - Arrange the sleeve head in the 3D Window using Superimpose (Under.)
  
  - To do so, using the  Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar, select the sleeve head Pattern. Right click on the Pattern to access a pop-up menu. Select Superimpose (Under) to arrange the sleeve head underneath the sleeve Pattern.
  
  - Make sure that the sleeve head is arranged below the sleeve Pattern and not the jacket body Patterns.
  
  
• Simulation
  
  - Use the Layer function on the sleeve to mitigate Simulation instability between the overlapping sleeve head and sleeve Patterns.
  
  - Using the Transform Pattern tool, select the sleeve Patterns in the 2D Window. In the 2D grid, click and drag over all the sleeve Patterns. Make sure that the marquee box fully encompasses the Pattern to select them properly. Then, navigate to the Property Editor, scroll down to Layer under Simulation Properties. Change the value to 1.
  
  - Activate  Simulate until the sleeve Patterns are completely settled over the sleeve head.
  
  - Reset the LAYER value to 0.
  
  
• Adjusting the Add'l Thickness - Collision of the Sleeve Head
  
  - Increase the Add'l Thickness - Collision of the sleeve head Pattern to account for the thickness of the seam when the seam allowances of the sleeve and armhole are sewn together.
  
  - To do so, select the sleeve head Pattern with the Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar. Navigate to the Property Editor and scroll down to Add'l Thickness - Collision under Simulation Property. Change the value to 4.
  
  

• Particle Distance
  
  - Since the sleeve head Pattern is relatively thin, decrease the Particle Distance to 5 to mitigate Simulation instability.
  
  - Using the  Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar, select all the sleeve head Pattern. In the 2D grid, click and drag over the sleeve head Pattern. Make sure that the marquee box fully encompasses the Patterns to properly select them. Navigate to the Property Editor and scroll down to Particle Distance under Simulation Property. Change the value to 5.
  
  
• Changing the Physical Properties
  
  - Assign a rigid Fabric to the sleeve head.
  
  - Using the Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar, right click on the sleeve head Pattern to access a pop-up menu. Select Assign to New Fabric. A new Fabric will be added to the Object Browser—the new Fabric will also be applied to the selected sleeve head Pattern.
  
  - Select the new Fabric from the Object Browser and navigate to the Property Editor. Scroll down to find Preset. Select Trim-Fusible Rigid from the drop-down menu.
  
  - Activate  Simulation to apply the changes.