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Sewing Patterns

• Sewing the Front and Back
  
  - Sew the shoulder seams using the  Segment Sewing tool. (Use the  Free Sewing tool to match the notches of seams if they are not split based on notches.)
  
  - Sew the yoke Patterns to the back shirt Patterns.
  
  - Join the shirt front and back Patterns at the side seams.
  
  - To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use the respective M:N Sewing tool. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective M:N Sewing tool.
  
  
• Sewing the Sleeves
  
  - Be mindful of the 2D CAD notches while sewing sleeve caps to their respective armholes.
  
  - Use the  Free Sewing tool to match the notches of seams if the Pattern outlines are not split based on notches. When the Pattern outlines are split based on their 2D CAD notches, use the  Segment Sewing tool.
  
  - To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use the respective M:N Sewing tool. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the Free Sewing tool to select the respective M:N Sewing tool.
  
  - Use the M:N Sewing,  Free Sewing or  Segment Sewing tools interchangeably as needed.
  
  - Be mindful of the Directional Notches while Sewing so as not to twist any Sewing Lines.
  
  
• Sewing the Collar Pattern to the Body
  
  - Use either the  M:N Free Sewing or  M:N Segment Sewing tool from the 2D Toolbar to sew the collar to the body of the shirt.
  
  - Start sewing from Center Back. To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use the respective M:N Sewing tool. To do so, navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective M:N Sewing tool.
  
  - Use the M:N Sewing,  Free Sewing or  Segment Sewing tools interchangeably as needed.
  
  
• Sewing Center Back Seams
  
  - Sew the Center Back seams of the collar, back yoke and back body Patterns to their respective pairs to maintain their Symmetric link.
  
  - The Patterns will be Merged at Center Back later in the tutorial.
  
  

Expressing Sleeve Plackets

• Expressing Sleeve Openings
  
  - Select the  Trace tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on the purple Baseline that will be used to express the sleeve opening. Hit the Enter key on the keyboard.
  
  - Right click on the newly created Internal Line to access a pop-up menu. Select Cut and the sleeve Pattern will be Cut based on the selected Internal Line.。
  
  - Navigate to the 2D Toolbar and select the  Edit Pattern tool to edit the length of the sleeve opening. Click and drag the vertex of the Cut line to adjust its length.
  
  
• Creating Internal Lines to Sew Placket Patterns
  
  - Select the  Trace tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on the purple Baselines marking where the placket Patterns will be sewn to.
  
  - Hold down the Shift key from the keyboard to select segmented Baselines. Hit the Enter key to Trace them as a single connected Internal Line.
  
  - Hover the mouse over the placket Pattern. Select and trace Baselines on the placket Pattern that indicate where the sleeve Patterns will be sewn to.
  
  
• Sewing Placket Patterns
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  - Use the  Free Sewing tool to sew the placket Patterns to the sleeve Patterns.
  
  - When establishing Sewing Lines, be mindful of the side of the placket that needs to remain open. Do not sew that portion of the sleeve to the placket.
  
  
• Sewing Cuffs to Sleeves
  
  - Use the M:N Free Sewing tool to sew the cuffs to the sleeves.
  
  - Establish Sewing Lines on the cuff Patterns, starting from the right and moving towards the left. Hit the Enter key on the keyboard to complete the first half of the seam.
  
  - To establish the second half of the seam, start creating Sewing Lines on the placket Patterns and continue onto the sleeve Patterns. Do not sew the Tucks as they will be folded. Be mindful of the Directional Notches while Sewing so as not to twist any Sewing Lines. Hit the Enter key on the keyboard to complete the seam.
  
  
• Assigning Fold Angles to Tucks
  
  - Assign Fold Angles to the Tuck so that it folds during Simulation.
  
  - Create Internal Lines by using the  Trace tool. Select the two purple Baselines that are the furthest away from the placket. Fold Angles will be assigned to them. Hit the Enter key on the keyboard. Change the Fold Angle for the Internal Line furthest from the placket. Select it with the  Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar, navigate to the Property Editor, and changing the Fold Angle to 0. Change the Fold Angle to 360 for the other Internal Line.
  
  
• Sewing Tucks
  
  - Sew the Tucks. Make sure their Directional Notches face each other.。
  
  - Use the  Free Sewing tool or the  Segment Sewing tool as needed.
  
  - When the Sewing Lines have all been established, change to the  Edit Pattern tool. Select the Sewing Lines on the Tucks and navigate to the Property Editor. Change the Sewing Line type to Turned. Now the Tucks will lay flat when Simulation is activated.
  
  

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

• Turning on Arrangement Points
  
  - Hover over the  Avatar Display icon—the second icon in the Vertical View Toggle Menu—to access elements of the Avatar that can be toggled on or off. Click on  Show Arrangement Points, which is the second icon in the horizontal Avatar Display series. Blue dots, the Arrangement Points, will appear on the Avatar in the 3D Window.
  
  
• Accessing Arrangement Points Hidden by Patterns
  
  - Move Patterns that are hiding the Arrangement Points for easier access.
  
  - Hold down Ctrl or Cmd + A to select all Patterns. The Patterns will be highlighted in yellow to indicate they have been selected. With the  Select/Move tool from the 3D Toolbar selected, click and drag the Patterns out of the way of the Arrangement Points.
  
  
• Preparing Patterns for Easy Arrangement
  
  - When two Patterns or more are placed together on a single Arrangement Point, the distance between the Patterns will be reflected in the 3D Arrangement. It is best to place patterns close to each other before before placing them on Arrangement Points.
  
  - With the  Select/Move tool from the 3D Toolbar selected, place Patterns that will be sewn together in close proximity.
  
  - For the shirt front Patterns, place the right front Pattern above the left front Pattern, overlapping slightly at Center Front.
  
  - To do so, use the  Select/Move tool and select the right shirt front Pattern to access the Gizmo tool. Pull the Pattern slightly forward, away from the left shirt front Pattern to avoid Simulation instability.
  
  
• Arranging the Body and Sleeve Patterns
  
  - Select the Pattern first and then the Arrangement Point. The Pattern will curve around the body when placed. Select both front Patterns and place them on an Arrangement Point at Center Front. Repeat for the back Patterns.
  
  - Select both the placket and sleeve Patterns and choose the Arrangement Point located on the bicep. In this particular file, the Arrangement Points on the Avatar’s arms are linked. This means that when a Symmetric sleeve Pattern is placed on an Arrangement Point on one arm, the other sleeve will arrange itself similarly on the other arm.
  
  - All Arrangement Points, except for those that are placed around the torso of the Avatar, are linked in CLO Enterprise v.3.0. Symmetrized Arrangement Points have a light blue outline around them.
  
  - Make sure to place the placket Patterns slightly above the sleeve Patterns in the 3D Window before arranging them together on the Arrangement Point.
  
  
• Arranging Collar Patterns
  
  - Place collar Patterns on the Arrangement Point on the back neck of the Avatar.
  

Adding Buttons

• Adding Buttonholes
  
  - Add Buttonholes to the wearer’s right front shirt Pattern.
  
  - Select the  Buttonhole tool from the 3D Toolbar.
  
  - Navigate to the 2D Window. There are purple Chalk Lines on the Pattern to indicate Buttonhole placement. Click once on the Pattern to add a Buttonhole. A line, representing the Buttonhole, will appear on the 2D Pattern and an image of the Buttonhole will appear in the 3D.
  
  - Select the  Select/Move Button tool from the 3D Toolbar. In the 2D Window, click on the newly created Buttonhole to select it. Hold down the Ctrl or Cmd + C keys on the keyboard to Copy and then hold down the Ctrl or Cmd + V keys to Paste. While holding down the Shift key on the keyboard, drag the mouse to move the Buttonhole in vertical straight line. Hover the mouse over the second Baseline marking the Buttonhole and right click to access the Paste pop-up window. Enter the number of Buttonholes and their Offset distance. Click OK to generate the Buttonholes.
  
  
• Adding Buttons
  
  - Add Buttons to the wearer’s left front shirt Pattern.
  
  - Select the  Button tool from the 3D Toolbar.
  
  - Navigate to the 2D Window. There are purple Chalk Lines on the Pattern to indicate Button placement. Click once on the Pattern to add a Button. A circle with a cross in the middle, representing the Button, will appear on the 2D Pattern and a Button will appear in the 3D.
  
  - Select the  Select/Move Button tool from the 3D Toolbar. In the 2D Window, click on the newly created Button to select it. Hold down the Ctrl or Cmd + C keys on the keyboard to Copy and then hold down the Ctrl or Cmd + V keys to Paste. While holding down the Shift key on the keyboard, drag the mouse to move the Buttonhole in vertical straight line. Hover the mouse over the second Baseline marking the Button and right click to access the Paste pop-up window. Enter the number of Buttons and their Offset distance. Click OK to generate the Buttons.
  
  
• Adding Buttons and Buttonholes to the Cuffs and Collar Stand
  
  - Repeat the same procedure listed in the previous step to add Buttons and Buttonholes to the cuffs and collar stand.
  
  - To rotate the Buttonholes, select the Select/Move Button tool from the 2D Toolbar. Click on the Buttonhole to be rotated and navigate to the Property Editor. Enter the desired angle that the Button will be rotated to.
  
  
• Fastening Buttons and Buttonholes
  
  - Select the Fasten Button tool from the 3D Toolbar.
  
  - Click on Buttons and Buttonholes to pair them up in either in the 2D or 3D Window. The selection order does not affect Simulation.

-  Buttons will appear on top of the Buttonhole they are paired with. The lock icon hovering above the pairs indicate that the Buttons and Buttonholes have been fastened.

Simulation

- Turn on Simulation to check all Buttons and Buttonholes have fastened properly. If any Buttons and Buttonholes are not fastened, change back to the Fasten Button tool and repeat the same procedure above.

- If any fastened Buttons and Buttonholes experience Simulation instability, reference the Tutorial, Correcting Improper Button Simulation.

Using the Fold Arrangement Tool to Fold the Collar

• Creating a Roll Line
  
  - Select the neckline of the Collar Pattern using the Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar. Right click to access a pop-up menu and select OFFSET AS INTERNAL LINE. Another pop-up window will appear with options to assign the offset DISTANCE. Enter 5mm.
  
  
• Folding the Collar
  
  - Select the  Fold Arrangement tool from the 3D Toolbar. Click on the newly created roll line and the Fold Arrangement Gizmo tool will appear. Use the arrows to fold the collar Pattern. Fold the collar Patterns individually if they are not Symmetrized.
  
  
• Assigning a FOLD ANGLE
  
  - To fold the collar more precisely, assign a FOLD ANGLE to the roll line.
  
  - Select the roll line on the 2D Patterns with the Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar. Navigate to the Property Editor. Under Fold, set the FOLD ANGLE to 360 degrees.
  

Simulation

- Click on the  Simulate icon in the 3D Toolbar to apply the changes. Click  Simulate again to turn it off when the 3D Garment is fully draped.

Changing the Avatar Pose

- Change the Avatar Pose from A-pose to have her stand at attention.

- To apply the Pose, navigate to and double click on the default folder named Pose in the Library. Thumbnails of Avatar faces will appear—double click on the folder that matches the Avatar in the 3D Window. Double click on or drag and drop the file pose_02_attention.pos to apply the pose.

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