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Adjusting a Jacket

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List of Contents

Loading an Avatar

Importing a DXF file

Arranging Patterns in the 2D Window

Sewing Patterns

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

Adding Buttons and Buttonholes

Simulation

Changing the Avatar Pose

 

Loading an Avatar

- This is a Women’s jacket. Load a female Avatar from the Library.

- Navigate to and double click on the default folder named Avatar in the Library. Thumbnails of Avatars will appear—double click on or drag and drop either female Avatar into the 3D Window.


Importing a DXF file

- Import the file, Jacket_female.dxf, for this exercise. (Download the practice files before starting this tutorial.)

- To do so, navigate to the CLO Tutorial folder, which was previously added in the Introduction to CLO tutorial, within the Library. Go to B_Basics, then e_Adjusting a Jacket. Double click on the file, Jacket_female.dxf, or drag and drop it into either the 3D or 2D Window.

- If the practice folder has not been added to the Library, navigate to File > Import > DXF (ASTM/AAMA). Locate the file, Jacket_female.dxf, and click Open to import the file. Set the units to mm and then click OK to finish importing the jacket.

Arranging Patterns in the 2D Window

  • Arranging Patterns

    - Arrange the Patterns around the silhouette of the Avatar in the 2D Window. The layout of the Patterns will be reflected in the 3D Window.

    - Select the mceclip0.png Edit Pattern tool from the 2D Window. In the 2D grid, click and drag over the sleeve Patterns. Be sure to encompass all the sleeve Patterns within the marquee box to select them properly. Selected sleeve Patterns will be highlighted in yellow. Right click on Patterns to access a pop-up menu. Select Flip Horizontally.

    - Place the flipped sleeve Patterns in between the Front and Back Patterns for convenience while Sewing. Sleeve caps should face their respective armholes.

  • Symmetric Pattern (with Sewing)

    - Only half of the Garment Patterns have been provided. Duplicate the front, back, and the sleeve Patterns as Symmetric Patterns to complete the 3D Garment. Use the  Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar to select the Patterns. Click on the 2D grid and drag the mouse over all the Patterns so that they are fully encompassed within the marquee box. The Patterns will be highlighted in yellow to indicate they have been selected.

    - Right click on one of the Patterns to access a pop-up menu. Navigate to the section labeled Clone Patterns with Linked Editing. Select Symmetric Pattern (with Sewing).

    - A ghost of the copied pattern will follow the mouse cursor. Click on the 2D grid to Paste. Both the selected Patterns and any Sewing relationships they have will be duplicated.

  • Arranging the Cloned Patterns in the 2D Window

    - Place the duplicated Patterns near the original Patterns. Using the  Transform Pattern tool from the 2D Toolbar, move the duplicated back Pattern close to the original back Pattern in the 2D Window.

Sewing Patterns

  • Sewing Shoulder Seams

    - Since the shoulder seams are split into multiple segments based on their 2D CAD notches, use the  Segment Sewing tool to establish Sewing Lines. (Use the  Free Sewing tool to match the notches of seams if they have not been split based on notches previously established in the 2D CAD software the Patterns were exported from.)

    - To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use M:N Sewing. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective   M:N Sewing tool from the drop down menu.

    - Change back to the  Segment Sewing tool to sew two individual Patterns together.

  • Sewing the Front and Back

    - Sew all the panels for the front of the jacket together. Repeat for the back panel pieces. When completed, sew the jacket front and back together at the side seams.

    - Since the front and back Pattern outlines are split into multiple segments based on their 2D CAD notches, use the  Segment Sewing tool to sew. (Use the  Free Sewing tool to match the notches of seams if seams are not split based on notches previously established in the 2D CAD software the Patterns were exported from.)

    - To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use M:N Sewing. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective   M:N Sewing tool from the drop down menu.

    - Change back to the  Segment Sewing tool to sew two individual Patterns together.

  • Sewing the Sleeves

    - Sew the two-piece sleeve together.

    - Be mindful of the Pattern notches while sewing the sleeve caps to their respective armholes.

    - Use the  Free Sewing tool to match the notches of seams if they are not split based on 2D CAD notches. Use the  Segment Sewing tool if Pattern outlines are split into multiple segments based on the notches previously established in the 2D CAD software the Patterns were exported from.

    - To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use M:N Sewing. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective   M:N Sewing tool from the drop down menu.

    - Be mindful of the Directional Notches while Sewing so as not to twist any Sewing Lines.

  • Sewing the Collar to the Body

    - Use either the  M:N Free Sewing or  M:N Segment Sewing tool from the 2D Toolbar to sew the collar to the body of the jacket.

    - Start the Sewing Line from Center Back. To sew multiple Patterns to a single Pattern, use M:N Sewing. Navigate to the 2D Toolbar. Click and hold either the  Segment Sewing tool or the  Free Sewing tool to select the respective   M:N Sewing tool from the drop down menu.

    - Be mindful of the Directional Notches while sewing so as not to twist any Sewing Lines.


    - Change back to the  Segment Sewing tool to sew two individual Patterns together.

Arranging Patterns in the 3D Window

  • Syncing Pattern Arrangement

    - Select the  Reset 2D Arrangement tool from the 3D Toolbar to reflect the Pattern layout in the 3D Window as it is in the 2D Window.

    - The Pattern Arrangement in both the 2D and 3D Windows will appear the same.

  • Turning on Arrangement Points

    - Hover over the  Avatar Display icon—the second icon in the Vertical View Toggle Menu—to access elements of the Avatar that can be toggled on or off. Click on  Show Arrangement Points, which is the second icon in the horizontal Avatar Display series. Blue dots, the Arrangement Points, will appear on the Avatar in the 3D Window.

  • Accessing Arrangement Points Hidden by Patterns

    - Move Patterns that are hiding the Arrangement Points for easier access.

    - Hold down Ctrl or Cmd + A to select all Patterns. The Patterns will be highlighted in yellow to indicate they have been selected. With the  Select/Move tool from the 3D Toolbar selected, click and drag the Patterns out of the way of the Arrangement Points.

  • Preparing Patterns for Easy Arrangement

    - For optimal placement of the jacket front panels, place the wearer’s right front Pattern above the wearer’s left front Pattern, with a small overlap at Center Front.


    - To do so, using the  Select/Move tool, select the wearer’s right front panel in the 3D Window to access the Gizmo tool. Pull the Pattern slightly forward, away from the wearer’s left front panel to avoid Simulation instability.

  • Arranging the Body and Sleeve Patterns

    - Select the Pattern first and then the Arrangement Point. The Pattern will curve around the body when placed. Select both front Patterns and place them on an Arrangement Point at Center Front. Repeat for the back Patterns.


    - For the sleeves, choose the Arrangement Point located on the bicep. In this particular file, the Arrangement Points on the Avatar’s arms are linked. This means that when a Symmetric sleeve Pattern is placed on an Arrangement Point on one arm, the other sleeve will arrange itself similarly on the other arm.

    - All Arrangement Points, except for those that are placed around the torso of the Avatar, are linked in CLO ver4.0.0. Symmetrized Arrangement Points have light-blue outlines around them.

  • Arranging the Collar

    - Place the collar Patterns on the Arrangement Point located at the Avatar’s back neck.

Adding Buttons and Buttonholes

  • Adding Buttonholes

    - Add Buttonholes to the wearer’s right front jacket panel.


    - Select the mceclip3.png Buttonhole tool from the 3D Toolbar.

    - Navigate to the wearer’s right front jacket panel in the 2D Window. There are purple Chalk Lines on the Pattern to indicate Buttonhole placement. Click once on the Pattern to add a Buttonhole. A line, representing the Buttonhole, will appear on the 2D Pattern and an image of the Buttonhole will appear in the 3D. Add Buttonholes to the entire Pattern where indicated.

  • Adding Buttons

    - Add Buttons to the wearer’s left front jacket panel.

    - Select the mceclip4.png Button tool from the 3D Toolbar.

    - Navigate to the wearer’s left front jacket panel in the 2D Window. There are purple Chalk Lines on the Pattern to indicate Button placement. Click once on the Pattern to add a Button. A circle with a cross in the middle, representing the Button, will appear on the 2D Pattern and a Button will appear in the 3D. Add Buttons to the entire Pattern where indicated.

  • Fastening Buttons and Buttonholes

    - Select the mceclip5.png Fasten Button tool from the 3D Toolbar.

    - Click on Buttons and Buttonholes to pair them up in either in the 2D or 3D Window. The selection order does not affect Simulation.

    - Buttons will appear on top of the Buttonhole they are paired with. The lock icon hovering above the pairs indicate that the Buttons and Buttonholes have been fastened.

Simulation

- Click on the mceclip6.png Simulate icon in the 3D Toolbar to apply the changes. Click mceclip6.png Simulate again to turn it off when the 3D Garment is fully draped.

 

Changing the Avatar Pose

- Change the Avatar Pose from A-pose to have her stand at attention.

- To apply the Pose, navigate to and double click on the default folder named Pose in the Library. Thumbnails of Avatar faces will appear—double click on the folder that matches the Avatar in the 3D Window. Double click on or drag and drop the file pose_02_attention.pos to apply the pose.

 

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  • Avatar
    jadeemilyjackson

    This isn't finished, the collar isn't folded correctly and it doesn't explain how to do this.

  • Avatar
    brockrogers

    To be honest I don't think this is very useful. How to sew and arrange the jacket should be obvious to anyone who did the previous tutorials. But what this doesn't help with is how to do the things that are specific to a jacket such as collar roll, chest canvas, etc.